Longtime readers know that World War One is a topic on which I've extended considerable time and energy, though also one in which I have allowed projects to lay fallow for far too long.
I don't want to leave The Great War permanently unfinished. Like so many other areas of life, at a certain point my efforts were swamped by other things, but it remains a major life goal of mine to finish it.
All of which is to say that when I realized that I had a good chance of being able to piggyback on a business trip to spend a day visiting the battlefield at Verdun, I leapt at the chance.
Books
I've read a lot about WW1 books, but Verdun is a massive and challenging topic. I wanted to make sure that I both refreshed my memory on the events and also had a good guide to the battlefield itself. I read three books to prepare myself:
Walking Verdun: A Guide to the Battlefield is a combined tour guide and military history. It's broken down into ten walks, each visiting parts of the battlefield. Each chapter first recounts the events that took place in that particular area, then provides a map of the walk showing the sites you'll see on it, and a step-by-step narration of how the walk proceeds and the significance of what you'll be seeing.
The Price of Glory by Alistair Horne is a history of the battle originally published in 1962, which puts it well within living memory of the battle. Horne talks about how veterans from both sides contacted him to confirm or expand on accounts that Horne provided in the first edition. While there are more modern histories to read of the battle, this one is the best foundational one to read because it follows the battle linearly from beginning to end. I'd read it before 10+ years ago, but listened to it this time on audiobook, finishing the last half hour while walking some of the trails around the battlefield.
Verdun: The Longest Battle of the Great War by Paul Jankowski is a much more recent work of scholarship, published in 2014. It provides a lot of good analysis of different aspects of the battle and how it has been discussed since, but because it's broken up by theme rather than chronologically, it's better as a second book to read about the battle than a first. I had a physical copy of it (as well as Walking Verdun) with me me on the trip, and am finishing off the last pages of it this Memorial Day weekend.
Getting There
After wrapping up my week of business work, I took one of those cheap flights which are so plentiful in Europe over to Charles de Gaul airport and picked up a rental car. I'd worried a bit about driving in France, which I've only done once before, but Verdun is in a rural area in the northeast corner of the country, and CDG is on the northeast side of Paris, so you actually do not have to navigate any complicated Parisian driving to get from CDG to Verdun. I was glad my little European car was a hybrid, because gas in France (or "sans plomb" as unleaded gas is called) is over 2.00 Euro per liter or about $8/gal.
I stayed at a little hotel in the cobbled street heart of old Verdun. The car was useful not only for getting to Verdun from CDG (a 2.5 hour drive) but also so I could drive to different points around the battlefield before parking and walking around. The Poilus may have walked on foot up the Voi Sacre through Verdun and up to the front lines, but if you're wanting to see the battlefield in 1-2 days, you need to supplement with some wheeled transportation. (If you were to visit with a bicycle, there are some great bike trails around the various sites, and it would be a great way to see things.)
Comprehending a Battlefield
Some years ago, we made a family trip to visit the Gettysburg battlefield. Even that three day battle was large enough geographically that it it was a little challenging to follow the full sweep, but individual parts of it like Little Round Top and Picket's Charge were very clearly comprehensible because you could stand at a key place and look across the whole sweep of it.
Verdun is challenging because it was so large in both place and time. The battlefield is (depending on your definition) about fifteen miles wide and about 10 miles deep. And the battle (again depending on where you draw lines) ran for at least ten months.
The Germans originally attacked just on the east side of the Meuse river on Feb 21, 1916, but then as the battle continued on different sectors would fall semi-quiet as either side made new attacks or counter-attacks, both on East and West sides of the river.
The battlefield as a whole remains something which is best contemplated with a map rather than in person, though there is a great 3D topographical map and video combination at the battlefield museum. However, as you visit the individual sites you can usually see why each individual area because a point of conflict. The importance of ground and visibility is very obvious. In a battle in which artillery was the predominant force (40-60 million artillery shells were fired during the course of the battle, and books recount something on the order of 80% of battlefield casualties being caused by shells) having the high points both for observation and for siting your guns was essential.
What you do get a strong sense for in walking the battlefield is first how the only protection from the constant shelling was getting into the ground: trenches, buried forts and shelters, even shell holes. For a soldier on the battlefield the only means of survival was getting down into the only thing big and solid enough to absorb the punishment of constant shelling: the ground. You can still see the remains of trenches and shelters and forts, and the bizarre rolling topography of shelled ground is very striking in person. I took multiple pictures trying to capture it, but although some get it some some extent, I really think you can't get the full sense without being there in person. This is ground which has taken a huge amount of punishment from shelling. It looks like a storm whipped sea which suddenly froze in mid-frothing motion.
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| Shell-churned ground in the destroyed village of Fleury |
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| Shelled ground on the wooded hill called Morte Homme |
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| Douaumont destroyed village |
The other thing you realize very clearly is how important high ground is. The reason why the hill called Morte Homme (a name going back to before the war, and based on the hill's shape) was fought over so long and so hard by both sides was that it provided good artillery observation and gun emplacement positions for shelling the center of the battlefield.
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| The view north (toward what were German lines before Feb 21, 1916) from the top of Fort Douaumont |
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| The view from near Fort Souville |
Walking the Trenches
There remain trench lines in various stages of repair. One of the better preserved ones was called London Trench (Tranchée de Londres) which was built by the French late in 1916 to serve as a supply and wounded evacuation route back from the re-captured Fort Douaumont. They built it using vertical posts made of concrete reinforced with steel rebar and also cement slabs between the posts. Many of the posts are still there and some of the slabs still stand. In one place, they've built a reconstruction with wood siding such as was there in 1916.
Scattered through the landscape are concrete shelters which provided soldiers with a place to escape the threat of shells for a short time -- though sometimes not enough shelter from the larger shells, as some of these are badly wrecked.
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| Infantry shelter TD3 south of Douaumont near London Trench |
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| Infantry Shelter DV1 south of Fort Douaumont |
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| The destroyed Command Post 118 shelter near Thiaumont |
There are also artillery battery sites with storage emplacements dug into the hillside where the shells could be kept out of danger of being set off by incoming counter-battery fire.
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| Battery emplacements near Fort Souville |
And there are fortified machine gun emplacements, like this one outside Fort Souville which looks like the most threatening elephant head ever.
The Forts Underground
If trenches dug into the earth were one level of safety, the next level were forts that were buried under 6-10 foot thick slabs of cement and then earth piled on top of the cement and stone.
Fort Douaumont and Fort Vaux were the two major forts of Verdun, but the latter is currently closed for reconstruction and so I wasn't able to see it.
Fort Douoaumont was captured early in the battle (Feb 25, 1916) by the Germans (it had been left almost unmanned by the French, who at that point were working on the theory that forts were an outdated relic of the 19th century). However, it soon became clear that buried forts were incredibly useful in a war of artillery. While the Germans held Fort Douaumont, thousands of German soldiers sheltered there. And once the French re-took the fort on Oct 24, 1916, it once again became a French strongpoint.
The fort had been built of stone and brick, then had a massive reinforced concrete slab poured on top of it for protection and then been buried.
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| From the south (French) side of the fort, you can see the construction of stone with concrete poured on top |
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| Sitting on top, the buried fort looks like a shell-pocked hill |
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| Rotating gun turrets that moved up and down provided firepower that could be retracted to safety inside |
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| This mechanism raised and lowered the gun turrets |
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| Underneath were multiple levels of underground passages and galleries |
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| A massive explosion and fire underground while the Germans were occupying the fort killed 679 German soldiers who are buried in this sealed off tunnel. |
The Dead Surround Us
Lasting some ten months, Verdun consumed about 300,000 dead (roughly half French and half German.)
In the constantly shelled battlefield, evacuating dead for burial was almost impossible, and so many soldiers (if they were buried at all) received informal burials on the battlefield, which were often churned up again by additional shellfire and excavations.
As a result, the battlefield was a source of many thousands of "unknown soldiers" as the battlefield yielded up the remains of unidentified men who had died fighting in the shell swept hellscape.
The bishop of Verdun led the building of an ossuary, as the resting place of the bones of men known only to God.
The ossuary is divided into niches for each region of the geography of the battlefield, but within each section the bones of French and German soldiers are mixed, as often only their humanity and not their nationality could be known.
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| The National Cemetery next to the Ossuary. There is an Islamic section where men recruited from Islamic regions of Africa into French colonial units lie, their headstones facing towards Mecca. |
Among the many moving sights in the Ossuary was a side alcove in the chapel where damaged items from the churches in destroyed villages were collects: twisted candlesticks, a battered monstrance, several alter crosses slowing signs of battering and melting. The churches in the nine villages that "died for France", villages wiped off the map by shelling and within the "red zone" which was not rebuilt but turned over to forrest after the war, had not been fully evacuated before the battle, and these were the remains rescued from those churches. (Photos were not permitted within the ossuary, so I do not have any from there.)
I spent twelve hours and 30,000 steps covering the battlefield, but I could easily have spent another day or two. It was fascinating to see a place that I'd read so much about, and the visit gave me insights I hope to use when writing.
One thing that's harder to get a sense of is what the region looked like before the war. Most of the area was farmland of one sort or another. It was after the war, when the area was so devastated by rubble and ordinance and the remains of the dead that the government declared much of the battlefield to be a "red zone" and forbad people to resettle or resume agriculture.
The forestry service planted tens of thousands of trees across the battlefield in the 1920, and trees have gradually claimed much of the battlefield. But underneath the trees, you can still see the churning scars of shellfire. And to this day, I read, both human remains and relics of the battle continue to be found amid the churned up shell holes of the battlefield.





























